How to Build and Maintain a Good Wood Fire for Pottery Kilns
1. Choosing the Right Wood
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Well-seasoned, dry wood (moisture content below 15%) burns hotter and produces less smoke.
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Hardwoods (acacia, eucalyptus, cashew, teak) burn longer and produce steady heat with minimal ash.
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Softwoods (pine, poplar) ignite quickly with strong flames but lose heat faster.
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Avoid rotten or damp wood with bark intact — it creates excessive smoke and can stain pottery.
2. Preparing the Kiln and Kindling
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Clean out old ash from the firebox before firing.
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Kindling: use dry paper or small wood sticks arranged in a teepee or log cabin style for good airflow.
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Leave space for air to enter from below — oxygen is essential for a strong burn.
3. Firing Stages
Stage 1 – Gradual Heat-Up
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Light a gentle fire for the first 2–4 hours to remove moisture from clay and glaze (rapid heating can cause cracks).
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Use small wood pieces, add fuel steadily, keep temperature around 200–400°C.
Stage 2 – Strong Heat Rise
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Once moisture is gone, increase wood size and feed every 2–5 minutes.
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Aim to reach 900–1000°C before entering the soak stage.
Stage 3 – Soaking & Flame Control
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Maintain 1200–1300°C (depending on clay and glaze type).
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Adjust air intake: open fully for bright flames, close partially to encourage ash build-up.
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Switch to ash-rich wood for natural ash glaze effects.
4. Signs of a “Good Fire”
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Bright orange-gold flames with minimal black smoke.
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Stable temperature without major fluctuations.
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Even ash distribution, no heavy clumping in one area.
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Consistent “hissing” or “roaring” burn sound without sputtering.